Tasting menus these days are often vegetable-forward. And at 2941, there’s a beautiful progression of five meatless courses that currently includes summer truffle risotto and Moroccan-spiced zucchini blossoms. Vegetarians, take note. But as soon as I saw the meaty options, I had no choice. I had to have the omnivore selections.
For as long as I’ve been alternating Meatless and Meaty Mondays, I’ve internally debated where fish falls on the continuum. I know a lot of pescatarians. But to me, personally, the visceral pleasures of tearing into a flaky filet fall firmly in the fleshy camp. And I suspect that chef Bertrand Chemel feels the same way. How else to explain his bulgogi-style treatment of Canary Islands branzino? Fish bulgogi paired with creamy matsutake mushroom and shoyu foam punctuated with crispy black rice? Believe it or not, it works admirably.
But the red meat at 2941 is the stuff lusty sea chanties are made of. The lush lamb osso buco, which falls apart in its sticky reduced braising liquid, is presented over homemade cavatelli with bursting heirloom tomatoes, fresh oregano, and some of the thinnest slices of garlic scape I’ve ever seen. A bite combining the textured pasta, melting lamb, and sweet-and-sour tomatoes commands near-erotic power. This is braised meat at its most compelling.
And there is still the venison chop. The game cut isn’t on many local menus, so it’s a coup when it’s presented so elegantly. This is no church-hall game supper. The medium-rare chop is served with peaches stewed in cabernet to bring the meat squarely into the season. It’s served over cracked durum, another ingredient you don’t see every day, but the grain has a delightful bounce that lends a surprising rusticity to the elegantly plated dish.
Not willing to spend $99 for a protein smorgasbord? From Tuesday through Thursday, 2941 also offers a $65, three-course prix-fixe. I’m eyeing the prime ribeye tournedos served with charred scallion and piquillo pepper over potato puree. But the chef’s tasting menu is worth every penny. 2941 Fairview Park Dr., Falls Church
Feature image by Alice Levitt
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