By Stefanie Gans and Rina Rapuano
Four Seasons
Falls Church | Vietnamese | $$
As the Eden Center, the Vietnamese-dominated cultural hub for food, drink and shopping, continues featuring spots for Korean, Bolivian and hot pot, it’s good to know Four Seasons provides pho. This pho is a chicken noodle soup, warm broth, salty and bright, packed with noodles and slivers of chicken. It’s not cluttered with a lot of extras and garnishes, a straightforward bowl for a purist. There’s another soup filled with wontons that is somehow so good it’s buttery. There is a dish featuring cubes of tofu, crispy in a way that the exterior seemingly crystallizes into something snappy, while leaving the insides creamy. This is a display of dazzling tofu manipulation, and it’s why Four Seasons can charge nearly $20 for a plate of sauteed snow pea leaves. It knows what it’s doing. // 6767 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church
This post originally appeared in our November 2019 issue’s 50 Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.
