Trummer’s
Clifton / American / $$$
Let’s face it: You’re stressed. You need short ribs in your life. Whether they’re presented over polenta with onion gravy; in broth as kavalierspitz, a dish from owner Stefan Trummer’s native Austria; or in whatever form chef Jon Cropf has thought of now, Trummer’s is bringing the tender, braised beef.
Now more than a year into its life as upscale comfort-food destination Trummer’s, not fancy-schmancy Trummer’s on Main, this restaurant is settling in nicely. This is a place for cornbread that’s so crumbly it almost doesn’t hold together long enough to be spread with honey butter and homemade strawberry jam. It’s the home of a chocolate pecan pie sitting in a pool of salted caramel and covered with rosettes of whipped cream light enough to remind you of grandma’s house—if your grandma was a great pastry chef. All that is the handiwork of Meagan Tighe, who is indeed a fine pastry chef, if far from a grandmother.
Have a question about the menu? Servers seem legitimately excited to provide guidance, whether they’re recommending the hand-cut pasta or the Titanic, the signature cocktail so named because of its iceberg-like scoop of Champagne sorbet. Just one sip will make that stress melt away.
See This: Tropical woven ceiling fans in a stunning white room upstairs are the perfect backdrop for an elegant meal. Feeling more casual? Try the comfortable bar downstairs.
Eat This: Cornbread with honey butter and strawberry jam, beef short ribs, chocolate pecan pie
When to Visit: You want simplicity done right.
This post originally appeared in our November 2020 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.
