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Best Restaurants 2020: Esaan Northeastern Thai Cuisine

Spice up your life in McLean.

By Alice Levitt October 30, 2020 at 8:00 am

Esaan Northeastern Thai Cuisine

McLean / Northern Thai / $$

Northeast Thailand is the country’s largest region, but most Americans have never tasted its food. This restaurant seeks to change that, one chile-filled plate at a time.

But don’t worry. Dishes aren’t uniformly fiery hot. The som tum, or green papaya salad, comes in five different versions, each complex enough to make every bite interesting. Crunch into the som tum muor, and you’ll taste fish sauce. Then you’ll notice pork cracklings before your mouth fills with tart cherry tomato.

Other dishes, like tangy Chiang Mai sausage, are flavored with lemongrass and other herbs but are barely spicy at all. This isn’t Thai cuisine you’ll find just anywhere, but you’ll wish it were.

See This: The walls are decorated with articles written about the restaurant. Clearly, we’re not the only ones feeling the love.

Eat This: Chiang Mai sausage, som tum muor, kai yang Esaan

When to Visit: Bored with your typical Thai food? Esaan is sure to spice up your life.


This post originally appeared in our November 2020 issue’s Best Restaurants cover story. For more food reviews, subscribe to our weekly newsletter.

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Contributing Food Critic/Editor

Alice Levitt has been writing for Northern Virginia Magazine since 2020. She began her restaurant critic journey at Seven Days in Vermont in 2007 before moving on to Houstonia Magazine in Texas. Her food, travel, and health innovation stories have appeared in Vox, EatingWell, Simply Recipes, Allrecipes, and many other national publications.

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