What the heck is white snowing cheese? The menu at Pelicana Chicken in Annandale left me pondering this question, but also unhesitatingly ordering it.
The Korean chain, which has American links mostly in the New York City area, calls itself “King of Chicken.” That’s a weighty title, but one that it works to earn with poultry that’s double-fried in oil that’s changed every day.
But white snowing cheese was on my mind. I usually stick to pickled radishes as my side with Korean fried chicken, but there was no avoiding my destiny of white snowing cheese.
The fries came to my table quickly. White snowing cheese, it turns out, is pretty much the powder you get to shake over popcorn. It is crumbly, salty and more than a little sweet. When it coats crispy fries with soft centers, it is love.
But the reason to go to Pelicana is the chicken. The best way to get lots of crust that’s sure to stick to the meat is to order the boneless chicken, which comes in cubes of what appears to be thigh meat, meaning it’s juicier than the breast pieces you’ll often find. The coating is thick, but never doughy or cakey.
I ordered my chicken with the spicy Pelicana Signature sauce. I wish I’d gotten it on the side, as it was gloppier than I’d predicted and pooled at the bottom of the plate in a sticky puddle. That’s not to say I didn’t like it. Though I received it in excess, the gingery, garlicky sauce reminded me of childhood dips of McDonald’s sweet and sour, always my favorite. The main difference was the heat, which built with every bite. It made my dining companion sweat. But there were always the white snowing cheese fries to help us cool our mouths. // 4219 John Marr Drive, Annandale
For more restaurant reviews, subscribe to our Food newslestter.