Robin Li wants you to trust him. So much so that he’s eliminated a la carte menus except for in the lounge area of his restaurant, Secret Chopsticks, opening in Rosslyn on Nov. 17. By taking a seat in Li’s dining room, you’re saying bring it on in the form of five tasting menus showcasing American Chinese cuisine. “Personally, I really like this style because whatever is on the tasting menu is what the chef is really satisfied with,” Li says. “As far as Chinese restaurants and Chinese food, I don’t think anybody is doing this.”
Diners will choose from four different nine-course, prix fixe tasting menus: vegetarian ($59), tofu ($59), dim sum ($79) and protein ($89). Additionally, a best of the best chef’s premier 13-course tasting menu is available for $109. Maybe this is bold for the chef/owner’s first restaurant in the U.S., but Li has had quite the culinary career.
After working at restaurants in Qingdao, Beijing and Nanjing, China, he came to America in 2000 and was at boot camp four days later, joining the U.S. Navy as a culinary specialist. He spent five years attached to the USS Bantam Richard, working his way up from the galley to the chief’s mess and, finally, the wardroom. Eventually, Li won a military culinary competition that paid his way to the Culinary Institute of America Hyde Park—any chef’s dream. Despite a rigorous deployment schedule in the aftermath of 9/11 (three deployments in five years), Li values the experience. “I enjoyed it; the Navy is cool. They really helped me because culinary school is really expensive.”
Li’s cuisine at Secret Chopsticks does not bend to any one region. Instead, it pulls from all eight distinct styles of cooking in mainland China. It should also appeal to the health-conscious. “We do not do really complicated cooking. We just make the dishes really light and healthy using natural ingredients,” Li says. “We don’t mess with the ingredients; we let them speak from themselves.” He predicts the chilled tofu with spicy sauce off the tofu tasting menu and the pork belly off the protein tasting menu will emerge as signature dishes. Though, the delicate tofu blossom resembling a Koosh Ball is particularly memorable.
“The only thing that’s Chinese is the food on the plate,” Li says when explaining the whole concept. “With everything else, I follow the American way, like having a huge beverage program and the style of service.” That’s where Li’s partner, Malia Milstead, comes in. She has curated a beverage program that includes wine pairings and creative cocktails (think garnishes like fried sage, lotus root chips and foams).
The 120-seat dining room and adjoining lounge are adorned with hand-painted umbrellas, bamboo columns and black marble accents. Warmer months will bring outdoor patio seating for an additional 60 people. The restaurant is located at 1850 Fort Myer Drive. They’ll open with dinner service only on Nov. 17 with plans to add lunch and weekend brunch later on.
Laura Hayes hails from Philly (but don’t hold it against her). She’s been covering the local dining scene for three years, and her work has been published in the Washington Post, Food Network, Washington City Paper, Arlington Magazine and more. Having lived in Japan for two years, she finds herself in a constant state of craving sushi. Laura always orders her favorite savory dish again for dessert and keeps her gut in check through lots of CrossFit classes.
