Fill 'Er Up
 
Eight One-Tank Trips to Fuel Your Getaway Needs

 
By Mary Selden and Wendy Zarganis

Cheap escapes from work and life’s boring parts are very necessary and not hard to do. Instead of renting season 2 of “Lost” and eating ice cream on the couch all weekend, fill up the gas tank and head to these outstanding weekend destinations. They’re liberating, fun and fewer calories than staying at home.

Brooklyn, NY
 
From Manassas, Miles: 260, Time in Car: 4 hours, 41 minutes

Brooklyn is IT. Manhattan has morphed into a mall with a claustrophobic amount of Starbucks and Jamba Juices in every neighborhood. Brooklyn doesn’t roll like that. NYC’s most populous borough has maintained its street cred and taken over as the hippest New York destination. Music? You can’t swing your iPod without smacking into a Brooklyn live music venue buzzing with talent. Arts? The Brooklyn Academy of Music (30 Lafayette Ave.; 718-636-4100) is an internationally acclaimed urban arts center and home to innovative opera, theater, dance and film. Food? Brooklyn restaurants are garnering a world-wide reputation for outstanding cuisine in every imaginable culinary style. A weekend to New York without visiting Manhattan? Fuggedaboutit, Manhattan won’t even be missed!

Walk This Way
A good start to a Brooklyn adventure is a 40-minute walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Savor excellent views of the Manhattan skyline through the Bridge’s visually stunning web of intricate steel cables. On the walkway, stay on the clearly marked pedestrian side to be safe from bicyclists on the biking side! Getting in the way of a busy Brooklyn commuter is not the best way to learn about Brooklyn. (The walkway entrance is next to the Federal Court Building in Brooklyn. There are stairs on Cadman Plaza East and Prospect Street or a ramp entrance on Johnson and Adams Streets.)

If visiting Brooklyn at the beginning of the month, check out The Brooklyn Museum’s “First Saturday” (200 Eastern Parkway; 718-638-5000) events on, well, the first Saturday of each month. World-class music, art and entertainment are on hand for free. Visitors can learn to tango, paint or watch an avant-garde film. Food, beverages and a cash bar are available. Parking is $4.

Before there was Brooklyn’s landmark Prospect Park to enjoy, 19th-century Brooklynites relaxed at Green-Wood Cemetery (500 25th St.; 718-768-7300). Seems creepy, but the 478-acre cemetery is home to several lakes, lush flora and fauna (and, of course, over a half million dead people). Basquiat, Leonard Bernstein and many legendary mobsters make Green-Wood their final resting spot. Take one of the walking tours to learn about the Victorian architecture, sculpture and the intriguing history of Green-Wood.

Grab A Slice
Two of Brooklyn’s most famous restaurants have a Manhattan affectation–they are nearly impossible to get into, but both are worth the trouble, even if you have to call weeks in advance. The Peter Luger Steakhouse (178 Broadway; 718-387-7400; www.peterluger.com) consistently takes the title for best steak in New York City. The service is surly, but the reward is an amazing porterhouse steak that nears perfection.

Known for its seafood, the River Cafe (1 Water St.; 718-522-5200; www.rivercafe.com) is perhaps Brooklyn’s most romantic restaurant with unbelievably beautiful East River views. Like Peter Luger, though, it’s tough to get reservations on weekends, so plan ahead. For a more accessible culinary experience, walk Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue or spend time on Smith Street in Carroll Gardens. With acclaimed restaurants like Bogota Latin Bistro (141 5th Ave.; 718-230-3805; www.bogotabistro.com), The Grocery (288 Smith St.; 718-596-3335; thegroceryrestaurant.com) and Patois (255 Smith St.; 718-855-1535), nearly all the world’s cuisine is within reach on those two Brooklyn streets alone.

If a slice of famous Brooklyn pizza is on the agenda, head for Grimaldi’s (19 Old Fulton St.; 718-858-4300; www.grimaldis.com), and try a “pie” with the coal oven-baked crust, savory sauce and homemade mozzarella, complete with Sinatra crooning from the jukebox.

Buy a Round
Alcohol fans won’t know where to start with the bevy of Brooklyn watering holes. The Wicked Monk (8415 5th Ave., between 84th and 85th; 718-921-0601; www.wickedmonk.com) is a Zagat’s Brooklyn pub pick for top New York City Irish pub, and is one of the city’s best places to grab a pint or unearthly strong mixed drink. The stained glass and gargoyle decor will please your inner monk (or sinner). The friendly bartenders and death-grip drinks make even the worst night good. The Gate in Park Slope (321 5th Ave; 718-768-4329) offers a great selection of beers on tap and an outdoor garden in the summer months. For live music, Luna Lounge (361 Metropolitan Ave.; www.lunalounge.com), the former Lower East Side hotspot, has new digs in Williamsburg and showcases great live independent music.

The only pesky part of a Brooklyn getaway is parking your car. There are numerous lots in the downtown area, but they are expensive and the metered street spaces are hard-won. Be sure to read the signs very, very carefully. Getting towed would not be a pretty end to an otherwise outstanding Brooklyn day.—WZ

Wilmington, Del.
 
From Washington, Miles: 178, Time in Car: 3 hours, 18 minutes

Lodged on I-95, smack between Washington, D.C. and New York City is Wilmington, Delaware’s largest city, yet it’s a little-known vacation spot. Possibly frustrated by its middle child position in the Interstate 95 family of cities, Wilmington has recently pursued an aggressive cultural renaissance.

Wilmington’s Riverfront Development Corporation has transformed the city’s Christina Riverfront into a charming tourist destination. Previously rougher neighborhoods have improved to make Wilmington an attractive weekend stop.

Wilmington is an easy-to-navigate city and is surprisingly free of the traffic problems that plague many major cities. Most of Wilmington’s attractions are within a 10-minute drive of I-95, so it is very easy to see a lot in one day or one weekend. And Delaware’s tax-free shopping, dining and entertainment can’t be beat.

Blues, Bob Marley and Brandywine
The Delaware Theatre Company and the Delaware Center for the Contemporary Arts are some enticing cultural reasons to visit Wilmington. The Riverfront Market (1 S. Market St.; 302-322-9500; www.riverfrontwilm.com) offers a host of culinary choices and nearby Tubman-Garrett Riverfront Park (named after famous Underground Railroad conductors Harriett Tubman and Thomas Garrett) is a lovely landscaped, 2.4-acre park that hosts numerous cultural events including the Bob Marley Festival, the Riverfront Blues Festival and the DuPont Riverfest.

A Wilmington trip wouldn’t be complete without paying homage to the industrialist DuPont family who settled in the nearby Brandywine Valley in the early 1900s and left a legacy of fantastic homes and gardens. The Hagley Museum (200 Hagley Road; 302-658-2400; www.hagley.lib.de.us), three miles from downtown Wilmington, is where the DuPont Company found its beginnings. The 230-acre property is where du Pont patriarch E.I. du Pont de Nemours harnessed the Brandywine Creek to fuel his gunpowder factory. Hagley is the original home of the du Ponts and visitors can observe the tastes, styles and gorgeous collections of the five generations of du Ponts who resided there. The Hagley tour guides are exceptional and know the du Pont family history as if it were their own. Tours of the powder mill are included. (Hagley suffered four damaging explosions through the years.)

Art Appreciation
American art aficionados can visit the N.C. Wyeth home and studio in Chadds Ford, Pa., 11 miles from downtown Wilmington, to see first-hand the natural inspirations that convinced Wyeth and his talented family to reside there. The northern light streaming through the spectacular Palladium windows of Wyeth’s studio impressively illuminates the studio workspace.

After touring the studio, see the final result of Wyeth’s artistic labor at the Brandywine River Museum (100 Creek Road; 610-388-2700; www.brandywinemuseum.org). The Museum’s setting along Brandywine Creek is as serene as many of the paintings found inside. The collections in the museum focus mainly on American art in the Brandywine region of the 19th century to the present. Lunch at the museum can be enjoyed while overlooking the creek. Outdoor lovers can follow up a visit to the museum with a kayaking ride down the creek during the warmer months.

Art appreciation can create an appetite, so drive back to downtown Wilmington and enjoy dinner–upscale at Harry’s Seafood Grill(101 S. Market St.; 302-777-1500; www.harrys-savoy.com) or casual American cuisine and handcrafted brew at the Iron Hill Brewery. (710 S. Madison St.; 302-472-2739; www.ironhillbrewery.com).—WZ

Lewes, Del.
 
From Hartwood, Miles: 176, Time in Car: 3 hours, 27 minutes

Sea, sand and history converge on the appealing town of Lewes (pronounced “LOO-iss”). Lewes was the site of the first European settlement in Delaware in 1631 and holds the honor of being “the first town in the first state.” Situated at Cape Henlopen at the mouth of the Delaware Bay, Lewes was in a unique position early on to be cosmopolitan.

“People in Lewes literally watched the world go by,” said Mike DiPaolo, executive director of The Lewes Historical Society, a group that is actively committed to preserving the town’s special history for tourists and residents alike. “The main shipping channel was at Cape Henlopen. You couldn’t get to Philadelphia without going through Lewes. Lewes is a small town with one eye out on the world.”

History Loves Company
Visitors can start with Lewes’ historical complex. Spend time at the Zwaanendael Museum (102 Kings Highway; 302-645-1148; history.delaware.gov/museums/zm/zm_main.shtml), built in 1931 to honor the 300th anniversary of Delaware’s first European settlement, Swanendael (“Valley of the Swans” in Dutch) in 1631. The building has 17th-century Dutch design elements like the terra cotta roof tiles and decorative window shutters. On the top of the museum stands a statue of David Petersen DeVries, the expedition leader of the settlement group.

From the museum, a short walk leads to historic Second Street. Stop for lunch at the Second Street Grill (115 Second St.; 302-644-4121). Or grab a custom-made specialty coffee drink at the Notting Hill Coffee Roastery (124 2nd St.; 302-645-0733) and head over to The Cannonball House (118 Front St.), which still holds a cannonball in its foundation after the bombardment of Lewes by the British in the War of 1812. The Cannonball House currently is used as a maritime museum.

Drive a mile east to Cape Henlopen State Park (42 Cape Henlopen Drive; 302-645-8983; www.destateparks.com/chsp/chsp.htm) to 4,000 acres of beaches. The park is open year-round and offers a nature center and the remains of Fort Miles, used by the Army to protect the coastline during World War II.

If shopping is a priority for you, and it should be in Delaware, head back on Route 1, about 3 miles south, to the Tanger Outlets at Rehoboth Beach (36470 Seaside Outlet Drive; 866-665-8682; www.tangeroutlet.com/center/REH). Take advantage of Delaware’s tax-free shopping status at over 130 designer and manufacturer outlets.—WZ

Cape May, NJ
 
From Alexandria, Miles: 150, Time in Car: About 4 hours

Of all the Jersey Shore’s multiple personalities, I like Cape May the best. She’s a distinguished older woman—prim and neat, yet spunky and full of good clean fun. She’ll keep you busy all day—bicycling through town, sunning on the beach, popping in and out of shops or sitting on the veranda with a glass of lemonade—but when 10 o’clock rolls around, she’ll bid you good night. She’s happy to leave the mischief-making to her noisy neighbor, Atlantic City. And while some may see this as a personality flaw, I love her for it.

Isn’t it Enchanting?
When you first arrive, you’ll want to clap your hands with delight at the storybook shops, gingerbread houses and tree-lined streets. With more than 600 Victorian structures—complete with latticework and rainbow trim—it’s the kind of place that risks artificial charm, but here it feels just right. In many ways, it’s like going back in time—passersby smile at you and shopkeepers speak to you as bicyclists pedal by in slow motion.

While it’s tempting to cram every minute full of sightseeing, there’s more satisfaction in finding a few memorable places—such as Leaming’s Run Gardens (1845 Route 9 North; 609-465-5871, www.leamingsrungardens.com). Set in a piney woodland, the gardens surprise at every turn—a bridge here, a gazebo there, an old whaler’s home tucked beneath leafy foliage. Paths wind through 30 acres showcasing snow-white waterlilies, pink-lipped roses and clouds of hydrangeas. The gardens are brilliant from May through October, but August is particularly magical, when hundreds of ruby-throated hummingbirds descend on the gardens, their delicate wings beating in a blur.

Beachcomber Delights
Another favorite is Cape May Point, a tiny town just a few miles west of the historic district. It’s home to Sunset Beach, the only place you’ll find Cape May “diamonds”—quartz pebbles that resemble the precious gem when polished. Sunset Beach is excellent for walking, but bring shoes for the coarse sand and pebbles. In the early morning hours, you’ll see sea, sky and shorebirds, but few people. Evenings bring comfortable breezes, a locally famous flag ceremony and splendid sunsets of amber, gold and violet.

Besides all the predictable seaside activities, Cape May offers multiple tours, antique shows, equestrian events, a few theaters and festivals such as the famous Spring Festival and the not-so-famous Lima Bean Festival. The town is also known for its Charles Dickens’-style Christmas with candlelit home tours, tree-lighting ceremonies, caroling and over-the-top decorations. More intimate activities include concerts in some of the old estates and photography workshops conducted by traveling professionals.—MS

Hartford, Conn.
 
From McLean, Miles: 350, Time in Car: About 6 hours

Sandwiched between urban prima donnas New York City and Boston, Hartford has often been overlooked as a destination in itself. It doesn’t help that the city has acquired the rather boring title of “Insurance City” since it headquarters industry giants like Aetna and Travelers, among others. But I love the irony of it—a city that now makes its living by reducing risk was forged by the very risks it took.

Early residents were key players in the American Revolution, Union allies during the Civil War and eager actors in the Industrial Revolution. Many Connecticut residents worked the Underground Railroad, assisting slaves in their escape to northern states and Canada. In fact, parts of the Connecticut Freedom Trail—which identifies several sites associated with the journey to freedom—are located in Hartford.

First-Hand History
History is everywhere here, so forget the textbooks and come see for yourself. Visit the Nook Farm neighborhood to see the home of Samuel Clemens, a.k.a. Mark Twain (77 Forest St.; 860-247-0998, www.marktwainhouse.org). The structure somewhat resembles a steamboat, harkening back to the author’s days as a steamboat pilot. The hodgepodge house with asymmetrical design and circus colors shows his silly side—evidence that he saw himself as a humorist rather than a serious writer.

My favorite part is the storytelling tour guides, who conjure up images of the man himself smoking cigars in the billiard room and writing his legendary stories—“Tom Sawyer” and “Huckleberry Finn.”

While you’re in the neighborhood, visit the home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of the renowned anti-slavery novel “Uncle Tom’s Cabin.” Although her home is simple compared to Clemens’s home, it contains compelling exhibits about her life, slavery and women’s rights.

Curtain Call
After a day soaking up local history, don’t get too comfortable—there’s more to do when the lights go out. Downtown, there’s a thriving performing arts scene—some of the best performances are at the Bushnell Center for the Performing Arts (166 Capitol Ave.; 860-987-6000; www.bushnell.org), which features everything from musical theater to cabaret to comedy. The center recently kicked off a new “Literature to Life” series—theatrical adaptations of popular books such as “The Secret Life of Bees” and “The Kite Runner.”

TheaterWorks (233 Pearl St.; 860-527-783; www.theaterworkshartford.org) is an excellent off-Broadway venue with a cozy theater seating just 200 audience members. Night owls can hang out at the Pig’s Eye Pub (356 Asylum St.; 860-278-4747) for drinks and live music with no cover charge.—MS

Bristol, Tenn.
 
From Fairfax, Miles: 360, Time in Car: About 6 hours

From Appalachian hills and hollows to stockcars dragging the speedway, Bristol is a little bit country and a little bit rock. The region was once America’s final frontier—Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone both roamed these parts, while the tales grew taller on down the line.

These days, residents tout their storied past, but they keep an eye toward the future. Since 1921, the city’s slogan has been “A Good Place to Live,” and the locals will often tell you what they like about their city. “Folks are friendly,” said one. “Low cost of living,” said another. Although the city is split between Tennessee and Virginia—the state line runs down the middle of State Street—you’ll find the same hospitality and sense of pride on both sides.

Country Music Capital
An early hubbub of music, Bristol’s roots include folk, old-time, Celtic, jazz and bluegrass. The monument off State Street marks the city’s claim to fame as the “birthplace of country music”—the first commercial recordings of country music were made on this very spot in 1927, among them the Carter family and Jimmie Rodgers. The Birthplace of Country Music Alliance operates a museum in the Bristol Mall (500 Gate City Highway; 276-591-5999) that contains an autoharp that belonged to the Carters among other things, and they’re slated to open a huge Cultural Heritage Center dedicated to country music in early 2008.

To get a real feel for the region’s current music scene, go to local pickin’ sessions, (www.birthplaceofcountrymusic.org for locations, or come for the Rhythm and Roots Reunion, Sept. 14–16; www.bristolrhythm.com). During the festival, several dozen artists with styles from ragtime to rock perform on various downtown stages. For an extra kick, join the jalapeno-eating contest for charity but beware the competition.

Ready, Set, Go!
There’s no better place to witness Bristol’s wild streak than the Bristol Motor Speedway (151 Speedway Blvd.; 423-989-6933; www.bristolmotorspeedway.com). Here, stock car racing fans pack “Thunder Valley” to watch cars spin around the world’s fastest half-mile track. Since the sport originates from Prohibition-era bootleggers speeding down mountainsides while trying to outrun the law, I like to think of the racers as modern-day “moonshine runners.”

After racing season is over, the speedway is transformed into a surreal holiday spectacle. From mid-November to January, “Speedway in Lights” features a random yet festive collection of holiday displays as well as an ice skating rink. Where else can you see a race car, dinosaurs and Santa Claus in a pickup truck all made from Christmas lights?

Country Kids
Bristol also is a great place for kids. The 200-million-year-old Bristol Caverns (Bristol Caverns Highway; 423-878-2077) is full of geological formations spanning three levels. Guides will lead you along paths once frequented by Native Americans, who used the caverns to stage attacks on settlers. Adventurous families with children ages 4 and up can race motorcycles at Muddy Creek Raceway in nearby Blountville (423-323-5497; www.victory-sports.com). Dates available for open racing vary. Spectators are always welcome for the motorcycle and ATV races.—MS

Block Island, RI
 
From: McLean, Miles: 405 (to Point Judith Ferry), Time in Car: 7 hours, 23 mintues, Ferry Time: 30 minutes high speed; 1 hour traditional ferry

A tropical New England seems like an oxymoron, conjuring up strange images of Bostonians in Bermuda shorts. However, tropical New England is what visitors to Block Island will find. Twelve miles off the coast of Rhode Island, Block Island is characterized by Caribbean blue water and stunning sunsets amid historic New England-style architecture. These disparate characteristics earned Block Island the nickname “Bermuda of the North.” For those weekend-trippers looking for an island getaway without the hassle and expense of getting out to the Caribbean, Block Island fits the bill.

Taxi Tour Guides
From the moment of arrival on Block Island, adventure awaits. A taxi tour is recommended to get an overview of the Island and its notable sights. Many of the taxi drivers are longtime residents (“old salts” is their affectionate moniker) and are happy to share their comprehensive knowledge of the island–from nature trails to facts about Block Island’s school system.

Avery Kirby, a 30-year resident of Block Island who claims his age is “anywhere between 5 and 67 years old, depending on what time of day it is,” gives taxi tours tailored to the passenger’s request. “Seeing is believing,” Kirby, a carpenter by trade, said of Block Island. “It’s a small island with biking and hiking trails. Whatever activities you’re into, everybody can come here and enjoy. I’m not a white-collar person,” he said, “but I can share what insights I have [about Block Island] and you can interpret them how you wish.”

Vin McAloon is another resident taxi driver and Block Island guide. Like Kirby, McAloon has a wealth of Block Island information and his tours cover any and all of the 7-mile long, 3-mile wide island. The 67-year-old McAloon, a former Block Island Chief of Police, raised his four daughters on the Island. McAloon drives his cab year-round even in the slow winter months. “It’s a fun thing to do,” he said of his taxi guiding, “though in the winter sometimes we [the year-round cabbies] just drive around and pretend to be busy.”

Off-Season Stop
For tourists who prefer to explore the island on their own, hiking or biking is an easy way to get around the Block. The North Lighthouse (Sandy Point, north end of island; 401-466-3200) that overlooks a National Wildlife Refuge, is a popular sightseeing stop. The breathtaking 160-foot Mohegan Bluffs provide unbelievable views of the ocean and Montauk Point, Long Island, N.Y. in the distance. Travelers with kids should stop at the Abrams’ Animal Farm (Spring and High Streets; 401-466-2421) and enjoy the diverse collection of emus, llamas, sheep, goats and camels.

The downside to a summer escape on Block Island is many, many people have the same idea. (Remember those Bostonians in Bermuda shorts? Well, they’re touring the Island’s North lighthouse right now.) A way to experience the beauty and charm of Block Island without suffering the crowds is to make it an off-season stop.

“The weather is not as much of an issue here as you would think,” said Block Island Tourism Council Executive Director Jessica Dugan of the off-season. “It’s sometimes very windy, but you can find good deals in October or November. The weather is still nice then. Mid-week is also a good time to visit.”—WZ

Asheville, NC
 
From: Gainesville, Miles: 440, Time in Car: Approximately 7 hours

I have seen the soul of Asheville, and it is blue. It’s the mountain breath, the city’s afternoon light, the chicory crowding the roadside. From the top of Chimney Rock, Lake Lure taints the surrounding green with blue blood. Even the music’s blue.

Grand Dwelling
Perhaps it was the blue beauty that captured the heart of George Vanderbilt, who called the region “the most beautiful spot in the world.” He later went on to build his dream home here—what still is the largest private residence in America, Biltmore Estate (1 Approach Road; 800-625-1575; www.biltmore.com) . Although the 250-room home teems with art, antiques, books and furniture, it’s easy to imagine that his most treasured asset might have been the view from the back terrace—the misty Blue Ridge stretching across the horizon.

Upon arriving at the Biltmore, it’s natural to feel overwhelmed—by beauty, of course, but also because there’s so much to see. Inside, there’s the two-story Baroque library, bowling alley and indoor pool, and artwork by masters such as Renoir, Sargent and Whistler. Outside, you can wander miles of paths through extensive gardens and mature landscape. Then there’s the winery, shops, farm village, stables, restaurants and outdoor activities like horseback riding and canoeing.

To make the most of your visit, arrive at the estate in the evening and buy a ticket for the next day—this allows you to tour the property that evening and the next full day. Evening visits are generally less crowded and provide a good chance to tour the house without crowds.

Downtown Digs
If you ever make it off the Biltmore Estate, you may be inclined to spend the rest of your time exploring Asheville’s charming downtown. If you’re a gamer, stop by The Sword and the Grail (9 Biltmore Ave.; 828-254-9989; www.theswordandthegrail.com), which houses a good selection of board games, video games and comics. While there, I met more than one bona fide gamer able to give great recommendations.

Next, visit the historic Grove Arcade Public Market (1 Page Ave.; 828-252-7799) to peruse produce, clothing and crafts, or shop Tops for Shoes for a pair of BCBG kitten heels. The Chocolate Fetish will fuel just that, but it’s hard to resist the dark chocolate dusted with chili powder that offers a taste of ancient South American civilization.

For local artwork, including painted furniture and handcrafted jewelry, the New Morning Gallery (7 Boston Way; 828-274-2831; www.newmorninggallerync.com) is a worthwhile stop. The two-level store also carries pottery, three-dimensional wooden puzzles and much more. Folk-art aficionados should attend the Southern Highland Craft Guild Fair, held biannually in July and October, which gathers together more than 200 crafts artists for a celebration of southern art (www.southernhighlandguild.org).—MS

(September 2007)