Eclectic, Exciting España
 
Seeking out Spanish Hot Spots

By Warren Rojas

No need to check the mercury. Spain is officially “hot.”

According to Paul Yohai, the entire country is undergoing “a wine revolution” that has united modern techniques, age-old vines and visionary winemakers who are unafraid to challenge tradition.

“If you want to taste the exhilarating spirit of the ‘new’ Spanish wines, head to Toro,” advises Yohai, listing the budding northwestern region as a go-to spot for modern tempranillo. He hails the Equren family’s efforts, singling out their 2004 Numanthia ($55) as the perfect ambassador of Toro’s developing greatness.

“This is the future of the new Spanish wine industry in your glass,” he argues, highlighting its “soaring aromatics, intense, concentrated blackberry and blueberry fruit, spicy minerals, full body and a rich, smoky, everlasting finish.”

Should the 2004 be unavailable at your local wine shop, Yohai says the 2005 should be equally pleasing.

For bargain hunters, Yohai recommends the 2004 T Toro ($9), a high-tannin tempranillo packed with “blackberry and plum fruit” and “soft spice, which ends in a long finish.”

Kathy Morgan, on the other hand, has her sights set on the full-bodied whites trickling out from the Rias Baixas region. Morgan enjoys the “vibrant and perfumed” 2006 Adegas Morgadio Albariño ($20), a classic white punctuated by flashes of “white peaches … flowers, basil and a hint of cinnamon.”

If your tastes run to somewhat smoother pours, Morgan suggests spending some time with the 2005 Lagar de Cevara Albariño ($21). “This is the richer, creamier side of albariño,” she counsels, heralding the “mouth-filling” texture and “explosive fruit flavors.”

In the wake of the tapas storm that has overtaken so many restaurants, Suzanne McGrath has been left wondering why the small plate’s indigenous partner—sherry—failed to ride the same wave. She posits that the sheer variety of the fortified wine (McGrath counts 11 different sherry styles) may have something to do with it.

“This means that if you’ve tried ‘it’ once, there’s still a wide variety of wines that you haven’t experienced,” McGrath says, adding that “Sherry is bound to offer something for virtually anyone.”

But the biggest problem appears to be counterfeit wines.

“Did you know that for every five bottles of ‘sherry’ sold in the U.S., only one is an authentic wine from the Sherry region of Spain?” McGrath explains. “All of the others are but cheap, poorly-made pretenders, undoubtedly blinding the American consumer to the subtle charms of this most ancient of Spanish wines.”

For an authentic experience, McGrath likes the Lustau “Los Arcos” Amontillado ($16), a drier-style wine “with enticing aromas of caramel and orange peel.” If sweet is more your speed, McGrath is sure you’ll be smitten with the Dios Baco Oloroso ($22), a richer dessert wine showing “flavors of dried fruit, honey and walnut.”

“One tip: Sherry shines with food, so sample it with a suitable partner,” McGrath notes, listing Spanish staples like ham, olives and salted nuts as welcome additions.

(November 2007)