Around the World in 8 Ounces
 
Wine Bars Make Globe-Trotting a Breeze

By Warren Rojas

Photography by Jonathan Timmes

The more you delve into wine, the quicker you realize how much more there is to know.

Grapes. Vintages. Terroir. The most minor variation makes a world of difference to the wine, producing infinitesimally different results the world over. Which is why it’s often difficult to get a firm grasp on any single varietal, much less the panoply of bottles that line the racks at your favorite grocery/restaurant/package store.

Thank god for wine bars—tasting emporiums dedicated to making wine exploration more accessible.

One inside-the-Beltway favorite is the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar (2190 Pimmit Drive, Falls Church; 703-992-0915; www.idylwoodgrill.com), a low-stress refuge stocked with budget-friendly finds. Owner Hedi Ben-Abdallah worked in wine for over two decades before opening his now 2-year-old establishment, a cozy spot featuring tables for dining and an adjoining bar/lounge area outfitted with comfy couches, coffee tables and stools for relaxing.

“I try to make it fun for my customers because it’s still fun for me,” Ben-Abdallah says of his business philosophy.

Idylwood offers around 40 wines by the glass—most under $7, all under $10. The full wine list includes three dozen whites and nearly five dozen reds, none of which breaks the $60 mark. While pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon remain the most prominent reds, the budding tempranillo and malbec sections show promise. Likewise, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc dominate the whites, but catchall categories often feature gems from Argentina, Italy—like the 2005 Terrazzo Esino Bianco ($5.95-glass, $19.50-bottle), a vibrant verdicchio-trebbiano blend—and abroad.

Additionally, Ben-Abdallah offers a 25 percent discount on all retail purchases (available to dining patrons or walk-in customers).

For his money, Paul Yohai says it’s tough to beat Dino in Cleveland Park (3435 Connecticut Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C.; 202-686-2966; www.dino-dc.com). According to Yohai, Dino owner Dean Gold keeps things interesting by hand-picking his wines based on personal preferences, rather than trends or industry rankings.

“This is a great place to try an Italian wine you have never heard of, as Dean has impeccable taste,” Yohai says, noting that Gold typically offers around 20 wines by the “ombra” (3-ounce taste) or the “quartin” (8-ounce carafe). Choice Dino pours include the 2006 Grotte del Sole Falanghina from Campania ($4–3 ounces), Ronco del Gnemiz Tocai Friulano from the Colli Orientali ($5–3 ounces), 2000 Ada Nada “Valeirano” Barbaresco ($7–3 ounces) and 2000 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino ($7–3 ounces).

“He [Gold] prices bottles at $10-$15 above retail, so you can afford to drink the really good stuff,” Yohai argues, adding that weekly wine specials like the Wednesday night wine flight and antipasto pairing ($25) makes enjoying Dino’s bountiful wine selection and creative cooking that much more accessible.

Meanwhile, Kathy Morgan’s preferred perch—Circa in Dupont Circle (1601 Connecticut Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C.; 202-667-1601; www.circacafes.com)—is just a few Metro stops away.

A spin-off of the Charlottesville-based Greenberry’s Coffee & Tea Company, Circa provides all the familiar breakfast beverages urbanites need to get through the day along with a full bar and wine program for those in search of nocturnal refreshment. According to Morgan, the in-house wine dispenser system regularly features Austrian gruner veltliner, Spanish garnacha, New Zealand pinot noir, German riesling and other global favorites. She also loves all the added bonuses Circa provides.

“Free Wi-Fi, outdoor seating and good, simple food are great perks to be enjoyed alongside the extensive, well-priced and impeccably stored international wine collection,” Morgan asserts.

(September 2007)