Burgundy on a Budget

By Warren Rojas

Tracking down value-priced wines from Burgundy has always been a challenge, even before the dollar leapt headlong into its latest exchange slump.

But all is not lost—at least not for those who know where to dig for underappreciated Burgundian gems.

Suzanne McGrath praised winemaker Jean-Marc Boillot for producing some of the finest whites in all of the Cote Chalonnaise, singling out his 2006 J.M. Boillot Montagny Premier Cru ($29) as “an off-the-beaten-track bargain” personified by “smoky aromas, ripe fruit and elegance that mimic its better known brethren.”

According to Kathy Morgan, anyone whose Chablis-tasting experience is limited to generic American jug wine should start fresh by exploring the “leaner and racier” selections from northern Burgundy.

“Chablis expresses the nervy side of Chardonnay,” Morgan said, listing the 2005 Domaine des Malandes Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume ($33) as a real find. Look for “green apple and oyster shell flavors” as well as a “long, persistent finish” from this one, she advised.

The meteoric cost of champagne has convinced Paul Yohai it’s time to look elsewhere for sparkling refreshment. And he’s found plenty to love from Louis Bouillot, an esteemed winemaker specializing in Cremant de Bourgogne (Burgundy’s answer to traditional bubbly). Yohai likes the NV Louis Bouillot Rose ($16) best, hailing the “cherry and strawberry” bouquet and “dry, creamy finish” of this pure pinot noir.

“Keep in mind that rose champagnes usually sell for twice the price of brut, making this an astounding value!” Yohai stressed, adding, “This is a great ‘house’ sparkler.”

(August 2008)