Going Greek
 
Ancient wine industry looks for a fresh start

By Warren Rojas

A proud Mediterranean nation home to over a dozen unique grape varieties, Greece has been producing wine for ages.

Historical records suggest the Hellenic wine industry began over 4000 years ago—establishing the first "culture of wine" along the way. A group of Greek vintners recently banded together (www.allaboutgreekwine.com) to re-introduce their viticultural treasures to modern oenophiles.

Paul Yohai believes the current crop of wines from the topographically diverse island republic should help Greece creep on to any serious wine collector's radar. "An exciting radical transformation is underway here," he says, noting that classically-trained vintners from all around the world have opted to experiment with indigenous Greek varietals rather than transplanting traditional European vines.

He points to the 2004 Erasmios Agiorgitiko ($12) as one of the new head turners, hailing it as "velvety smooth on the palate, with a rich suave texture." A product of the 20-year-old Kotrotsos Winery, Yohai maintains that the wine features a "complex bouquet and flavors of baked cherries, dark berries, cedar, cigar box and exotic spices."

Another steal is the 2003 Hermes moschofilero ($8), a complex white Yohai says delivers "lovely floral aromas of rose petal, honeysuckle and fresh mandarin orange balanced by a gripping minerality." But don't be fooled by the fruit-forward bouquet, since Yohai says this one "finishes crisp, clean and dry with hints of spice."

Suzanne McGrath delved into Macedonian territory to find one of her Greek selections, emerging with the 2004 Katogi & Strofilia xinomavro ($16). She likens the prominent red to an Italian pinot noir or Nebbiolo—"medium-bodied, with red fruit flavors (think strawberry, plum, and cherry) and a distinctive earthiness"—urging first-time tasters to expect "sweet spice notes of cinnamon and mace."

For traditionalists, McGrath recommends the 2003 Domaine Dereskos cabernet sauvignon ($17), a Peloponnesian red she tags as "very impressive." A shoo-in for any lamb dinner, McGrath says to look for "attractive, cedary aromas (from a year of aging in French oak) and complex flavors of ripe red fruits and mint.

Much like Yohai, Kathy Morgan is convinced the Greek wine business is "in the midst of a quality revolution that cannot be stopped." Morgan views boutique winemaker Paris Sigalas as one of the leaders of the reinvigorated Greek wine scene, lauding the 2005 Sigalas Santorini ($18) for its "crisp, fresh and flavorful expressions" of the native assyrtiko grape. "His unoaked version is beautifully balanced, with pure citrus and peach flavors and a distinct minerality," she counsels.

Morgan is equally smitten with the 2003 Skouras Grand Cuvée Nemea ($25), a top shelf re-interpretation of Agiorgitiko brought to bear by winemaker George Skouras. "Although Nemea's Agiorgitiko grape is known to be light and easy-drinking, the Skouras Grand Cuvée is made from high-elevation fruit, producing a serious and sophisticated red with great currant, black plum and tobacco flavors," she states.

(May 2007)