Bordeaux vs. Burgundy
 
Taste. Evaluate. Debate.

By Warren Rojas

Some of the most venerated wines in the world come from these prominent regions in France. Individual harvests may founder or thrive from year to year, but the rich history, expressive soils and passionate producers within each area sustain these dueling giants as the de facto standard bearers of the French wine tradition.

So while the rest of the country remains transfixed on college hoops, we invite you to stage your own battle royal. Invite some friends over to try each of the representative wines listed in the bracket above, and see which of the "Sippable Six" sways the crowd most.

Just be ready for a "spirited" fight.

Kathy Morgan balks at the notion of encapsulating either of these diverse viticultural camps in any one bottle, but suggests that it "it is possible to discover the magic of each region" through careful exploration. Pointing to the 2003 and 2005 vintages from Burgundy as "the surest bets on the shelves right now," Morgan taps the 2005 Domaine A. Chopin Hautes-Cotes de Nuits blend as an indicator of Burgundian greatness, estimating that it "offers insight into the captivating purity and graceful silkiness and polish that are the essence of Burgundy."

In Bordeaux—which Morgan perceives as "the balance of power and finesse"—she likes the 2003 Les Hauts de Pontet Pauillac, a youngish but well-rounded wine.

For Paul Yohai, the Bordeaux-Burgundy competition is much more primal. "Some would describe Bordeaux as intellectual and Burgundy as sensual," he says of the age-old wine divide. He touts the 2000 La Reserve de Léoville Barton as "one of the best value wines of all Bordeaux," trumpeting this second growth from St-Julien as "a big, rich, full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon" with definite staying power.

Looking eastward, Yohai casts his vote for the 2002 Domaine Patrick Javillier Savigny-les-Beaune Les Serpentieres, a Premier Cru Pinot Noir he claims can grace your table this evening or spend some time in your private cellar.

Suzanne McGrath selects the 2003 Chateau Lascombes Margaux as her Bordeaux pick, suggesting that the traditional Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon tag team "is delicious now, but will continue to soften and improve" for at least a decade.

In a nod to the evolving global wine scene, McGrath recommends the more "modern" 2003 Shaps & Roucher Pommard as the best ambassador for Burgundy, stressing that this particular Pinot Noir—while still totally French—bears the stamp of Virginia winemaker, Michael Shaps.

Of course, attempting to pigeonhole any wine producing area based on the merits of single wine is pure folly. But it would be an even bigger affront—at least according to Morgan—to sample the assorted Bordeaux and Burgundy selections in a sterile environment. "To fully understand each wine, it is important to remember that these are food wines," she counsels, estimating that "beef or lamb with sautéed wild mushrooms will flatter both regions equally."

So, start some savory treats in the oven. Break out the scorecards. Allow the bottles to breathe for a bit. And, let the games begin.

(March 2007)