(December 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Food: 8.8 Ambiance: 8.6 Service: 8.5

I know, I know. Driving beyond the Beltway for a meal sounds preposterous in our rush hour-ravaged corner of the universe. Luckily, memories of the inspired cuisine at Foti’s tend to last significantly longer than the round-trip commute.

First-time restaurateurs Frank and Sue Maragos seem to be flourishing, having received regional acclaim as well as ample praise from Culpeper natives happy to have such fine cooking right down the street.

Most nights, extended families and spiffed-up couples mingle freely amidst the exposed brick walls and hardwood floors that frame the longish main dining room. Nattily dressed servers (dig the electric blue shirts) can speak at length about their favorite wines—expect about a dozen mixed reds/white by the glass, all less than $11; bottles start below $30 and climb to $140 for a 2004 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape—or specialty dishes, but occasionally disappear for unexplained stretches.

The menu holds few real surprises, but offers plenty to enjoy.

Tender snails arrive sauteed in a terrific garlic-butter-bacon broth worth sopping up with the polenta cake bedding (a Gallic-Roman masterpiece). Doubly cooked chicken (flash-seared, then baked) benefits from a homemade rosemary-oregano-thyme rub, while pork gets a boost from a grilled onion and hickory smoked tomato-based barbecue sauce. Meanwhile, one unforgettable chiller folds goat cheese, raisins, mint chocolate and lavender into dark chocolate ice cream (my tongue is still doing back flips).

(August 2006)

By Warren Rojas

F 8.8   A 8.6   S 8.5

Establishing a restaurant invariably requires some luck. Of course, it never hurts to have talented staff, ambitious owners and an inscrutable pedigree on your side-a dream scenario that has propelled Foti's to the top of the local dining scene in near-record time.

The comfortable locale combines the best of fine dining (innovative wine list, adventurous cuisine) with small town charm (lax dress code, rustic decor). The fledgling operation is overseen by a group of alums from the renowned Inn at Little Washington, including Frank Maragos (chef/owner), Sue Wilson (manager), Tyler Packwood (sommelier) and Jenna Ortner (pastry chef). But don't expect much of a floor show, because this place is all about the food.

The much lauded fried egg sandwich bears toasted ciabatta topped with country ham, shaved Parmesan and a sunny-looking egg anxious to soak everything through with its quivering yolk. Vanilla lobster propped atop syrup-drenched corn cakes unite the South and sea brilliantly. Roast chicken bears a crispy hummus coating while basking in a pool of citrus-herb bliss. Elsewhere, a Greek surf-and-turf plate heaps jumbo shrimp over a juicy filet baked in a fabulous Byzantine sauce (teaming with tomatoes, lobster stock and herbs).