Best New Vegetarian Surplus

(March 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Adhering to a strict vegetarian regimen may sound like a death sentence to those who treasure dining variety. Good thing the creative forces behind the meatless stronghold that is Saravana Palace are always at the ready with a tasteful reprieve.

Parked right in the middle of a budding Fairfax shopping strip, this Indian powerhouse has garnered a dedicated following among the local Indian community-probably about 90 percent of the regular clientele-and curious Westerners alike. The meager décor (just a few tapestries featuring traditional Hindu icons on the walls) would likely benefit from an aesthetic makeover, but it's still easy enough to get comfortable in the roomy booths and large circular tables in the main dining room.

But don't let the austere layout fool you. The options are many and the flavors free-flowing on the voluminous menu.

A vibrant tomato sauce turns regular rice into pumpkin-colored grains spiked with fragrant herbs and just the right amount of heat. Curry-soaked squash patties, better known as long squash kafta, come stewed in sweat-inducing spices. The simple yet savory beet porial summons a tart salad of diced beets and shredded peppers. A fork-bending mass of sautéed potatoes and green beans makes you forget that you are actually eating healthy. Gargantuan dosas (traditional rice crêpes) envelope everything from a spiced potato and onion paste to searing homemade chutneys. Those in search of more filling fare should make sure to try the chili paneer, a fabulous blend of tomatoes, onions and fried cheese, sautéed in rich curry.