Best New Neighborhood Secret

(March 2007)

By Warren Rojas

As the house-hunting masses continue their steady migration away from the overpriced inside-the-Beltway plots, so goes the local talent. That forced exodus has prompted some talented chefs to seek their fortunes in some of Virginia's fastest growing rural communities. So it is that sleepy, historic Warrenton has become the beneficiary of the imaginative cuisine served by chef Rob Fleming and partner, Laura Hoffman, at Crescendo Bistro.

The two-story restaurant accommodates casual diners in an upstairs accented by blond wood, exposed brick walls and paper napkins spruced up with shiny silver napkin rings, while you get a much more romantic feel in a downstairs lair beset with linen tablecloths and a massive stone fireplace. 

Assorted game and seafood selections make up the heart of the refined menu, but always pause to allow staff to tempt you with creative daily specials.

One such offering of homemade chili reveals a superlative stew of tender buffalo, onions, black beans and celery soaking in a tomato broth. All that's missing is some shredded cheddar and a side of cornbread to make this a standalone stunner. Crackling fried shrimp are covered in Asian spices and served atop seaweed salad offset by dots of honey mustard. Flank steak rabiatta brings shaved beef tossed over angel hair punctuated by a fragrant sauce of sweet peppers, onions and chunky tomatoes (good, but the name suggests something a little spicier). Conversely, a flattened chicken breast perked up with Fontina, breadcrumbs and thinly sliced prosciutto always rises to the occasion.