Best New Roman Refuge

(March 2007)

By Warren Rojas

According to staff, the bright purple orchids that grace every dish served at Vespucci are completely edible, and in fact, heart-healthy. Seems like an awful lot of work for one little flower, considering the heft of the generous pastas and abundant seafood platters prepared by executive chef Emilio Sadaghiani.

An offshoot of owner Ray Farnood's longstanding catering operation, Vespucci combines the pleasures of fine dining with the comfort of a neighborhood retreat. The main dining room is framed by striking hardwood rafters dotted with decorative lights shaped like grape clusters, while a nautical mural rounds out the restaurant's unique personality.

The parade of Roman delights begins with a bread basket that sidesteps plain butter in favor of a roast garlic bulb steeped in olive oil (stunning). Roast eggplant envelops a purse of melted ricotta and mozzarella, all smothered in plum tomato sauce. Tortellini mimosa reveals cheese-stuffed ringlets surrounded by a creamy mascarpone sauce propped up by fresh peas and chopped pancetta. Pounded chicken filets are wrapped around a prosciutto-asparagus core, then smothered in melted mozzarella and set afloat in a sultry port wine reduction. Elsewhere, a lemony veal filet turbocharges a salad of torn arugula, sliced red onions and fresh tomatoes.

Traditional desserts are tempting, but the hands-down favorite remains the frozen "bomba"-a multi-splendored mound of mango, lemon and raspberry sorbets encased within a white chocolate shell bolstered by bands of chocolate fudge (irresistible).