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(November 2008) By Warren Rojas Food: 9.2 Ambiance: 8.9 Service: 9.3
If you are keeping score, the arrival of executive chef Bertrand Chemel has ushered in 2941 3.0 (or maybe 2.5 if you count the fly-by-night tenure of interim toque Scott Bryan).
The revolving-door kitchen has done little to stymie interest in the landmark property. A quick glance around the dining room confirms that this is the spot up-and-comers bring parents/friends/significant others to prove that they’ve arrived—though the smattering of dressed-up couples and backslapping revelers who often line the swanky bar would suggest some people see nothing wrong with some self-spoiling.
Chemel is only too happy to oblige, plying guests with rare indulgences (Wagyu ribs, sustainable fish) the world over.
Fresh Kumamoto oysters are decorated with fluke tartare, zesty cantaloupe and spicy shiso (terrific synergy). Tea-smoked duck soars sky high with sweet-and-sour cherries
and almond-studded barley risotto. Steamed sea bass virtually dissolves beneath leek-broccoli-serrano ham au jus (fabulous). (August 2006) By Warren Rojas F 8.7 A 8.8 S 8.5 Start with a panoramic lake view. Add several parts imaginative cooking to a healthy dose of aesthetic design. Sprinkle signature touches like artisan breads and homemade cotton candy. And voila! You've got the recipe for success that keeps the tables filled at the illustrious 2941. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe daytime patrons in natural light, while a starry cape descends for those interested in a late-night meal-begging the question if Mother Nature is on the payroll. Inside, a team of impeccably dressed servers fawn over each table while chef/owner Jonathan Krinn charms guests during his impromptu tableside visits. The menu features a host of seasonal dishes along with myriad package deals including a nine-course tasting extravaganza (available at lunch or dinner) and the build-your-own menu spontane (four courses per couple). A bouquet of white asparagus, leeks and spaetzel is awakened by terse vinaigrette. Maine lobster in a blood orange curry proves exciting. Halibut anointed with razor clams is a soft treasure. Stuffed chicken breasts hug a core of creamy morels. Or sate your taste for beef with a hanger steak soaked in Merlot or a pepper-encrusted sirloin paired with polenta.
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