(June/July 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Halt hunger with a stop light roll ($5.50)—spicy green and red roe split by a bright yellow quail egg (chilled yolk provides an unexpected jolt)—and a vegetable-laden portion (brimming with bean sprouts, broccoli and baby corn) of Singapore-style fried rice ($8).

(May 2006)

By Warren Rojas

A playground for the ultra hip, Café Asia caters to urban night owls with a glitzy bar, an expansive main dining room, an open kitchen and a hideaway lounge in the back. Yet the down-to-earth prices make it easy for famished visitors—noctrunal or otherwise—to piece together a pan-Asian extravaganza without blowing a lot of Yen.

An order of Tom Yum soup ($4) summons a steaming bowl of spicy lemongrass—the lemon is a real eye-opener—peppered with pliant mushrooms and shrimp. One guaranteed fire starter is the spicy Chinese ravioli ($4), a half dozen ground pork meatballs wrapped in squishy egg noodles, all plopped into a striking red oil-garlic sauce with plenty of diced scallions. Somewhat less threatening but no less delicious is the steamed shrimp gyoza ($5), which brings four plump dumplings stuffed with spongy shrimp and a soy dipping sauce.

If you prefer cooler sensations, the numerous sushi specials (from $8 to $17 during lunch a dinner) include assorted bento boxes, roll combos and other mix-and-match arrangements. The signature Café Asia roll ($4.50; six pieces) brings tuna, crab and avocado in rice. A crunchy shrimp tempura roll ($7.50; six pieces) has batter fried shrimp, cream cheese and rice rolled in spicy roe. An exciting eel and asparagus roll ($4.75; six pieces) unites land and sea quite nicely, while the aptly named spicy tuna roll ($4.75; six pieces) is all fish and all business.

Still have room? Then dive into the massive rice bowls. Indonesian fried rice sports plenty of sweet soy, egg and onion in every bite (flavors are strong but not overpowering). Meanwhile, Singapore rice sings with savory yellow curry and loads of shallots. All can be made with vegetables ($8 for a banquet of broccoli, bean sprouts, and mini corn), chicken, beef or pork ($9), shrimp ($10) or combination ($10 for any protein pairing, or $12 for seafood).