Best New Elegant Thai

(March 2007)

By Warren Rojas

Seems everywhere you turn these days, a new Thai place crops up overnight. But while many of these fly-by-night operations offer little more than Americanized take-out or deliberately bland buffet offerings, the traditionalists at Cee have accessorized their authentic cuisine with stylish surroundings and unreserved hospitality.

Waitresses in prim khaki tops and long black skirts see to your every need, offering suggestions for those who might founder when faced with the nearly 100 dining options.

For a tidy but tasteful treat, try the delicious "golden sacks," crispy fried dim sum filled with minced pork and shrimp. A plate of sun-dried beef summons a cluster of crunchy, shredded beef. Marinated chicken wings are grilled instead of drowning to death in a deep-fryer. Strips of barbecue pork absolutely sizzle when introduced to the spicy lime-scallion sauce at their side (excellent). A signature catfish delivers swaths of tender fish with creeper heat (love those piquant chili pods) hidden beneath a seductive honey glaze. Elsewhere, the dichotomous lamb in two seasons yields succulent lamb chops drenched in contrasting pools of scorching red chili sauce with just a touch of coconut milk, and a fragrant garlic base; the combative yet complementary flavors are sectioned off by a wall of steamed broccoli and fresh asparagus.