(April 2007)

By Warren Rojas

From the soothing piano music to the free-flowing Cava, brunch at the Palm Court compels you to break free from the daily grind.

While the decorum is all about elegance and class (think uniform-clad dining captains and sterling silver everything), diners appear to be a mix of everyday folk-including extended families, business groups and Red Hat Society ladies-looking to be spoiled for just a few hours.

And spoiled they are.

The awe-inspiring buffet is split between separate showcases of made-to-order creations (omelets, waffles), assorted salads (fresh fennel, ravioli and asparagus) and smoked fish (trout, dill-encrusted gravlox), and lavish desserts (fruit tortes, seasonal cakes).

Ample slices of rosemary rib rye taste even better crowned with a dab of garlicky gravy and homemade horseradish. Chilled duck breast partnered with Asian coleslaw is delicious. Roast chicken gets a boost from a tangy, Southwestern-style salsa. Carb lovers stand agape at the fresh fruit station (figs, apricot compote, orange mascarpone) as they deliberate how best to decorate their waffles.

And though I really shouldn't, I head back for one more slice of fresh zucchini bread. And maybe a chocolatey black-bottom muffin ...

(August 2006)

By Warren Rojas

F 8.3   A 8.4   S 8.2

Rather than succumb to the temptation to become just another corporate cafeteria, the Palm Court staff continues to reach out to local diners with intriguing cuisine and a wealth of brunch options.

The expansive restaurant sits at the center of a sprawling suburban conference center (looks like a college campus). There are private dining rooms for visiting groups, and perfectly accomodating chairs in the main dining area for relaxing after a long day on the links. Meanwhile, the better than average menu provides several worthwhile options.

One evening's amusé of seared tuna drizzled with balsamic is well intentioned but poorly executed (dries out the mouth). Better to start with lobster bisque that is easy on the butter, or the bounty of mussels doused in vermouth, onion and dried lemon zest. Orechiette pasta tossed with grilled chicken, ham and broccoli rabe, gets finished with a velvety cream sauce. A well-marbled and very juicy buffalo filet gets done up with a chili-cumin crust and a prismatic arrangement of purple mashed potatoes, ripe avocado and yellow tomatoes. Sunday brunch brings all-you-can-drink champagne, an impressive array of smoked fish, prime rib and a sinful dessert spread.