Thursday, Jul 3rd, 2008 at 11 a.m.

Dining isn’t just a biological necessity in this area. It’s almost a sport. Luckily, the rules of the game are clearly defined: Dine. Dissect. Disseminate. Defend.

Contribute to the collective dining experience by joining us each Thursday at 11 a.m. for our Grill Warren chat, your chance to quiz food writer Warren Rojas about anything and everything to do with the ever-evolving Northern Virginia restaurant scene. We’ll cover it all—from glitzy gourmet strongholds to homey ethnic hideaways—as we explore the wealth of dining diversity our area has to offer. Who knows? Rojas may even share a few delicious morsels of restaurant gossip from time to time …

So unleash those burning questions. Share your best fine dining anecdote. Just remember to bring an open mind, plenty of good humor and an appetite for lively discussion.

What Do You Consider "American Cuisine"?

For those who missed it, the James Beard Foundation issued a thought provoking white paper delineating attempts by everyday folks to accurately define "American cuisine."
 
"We wanted to know what and how the growing ranks of food lovers who subscribe to food magazines, watch 24-hour food television, buy cookbooks for their kitchens and their coffee tables, frequent trendy restaurants and favorite dives, and enjoy cooking for family and friends feel about the idea of an American cuisine," the JBF researchers state in their introduction.

In the end, it seems "American cuisine" remains somewhat indefinable, due largely to the fact that our national culinary identity is much like our ballooning populace--a mish-mash of different cultures operating within common boundaries. Or as the researchers put it, "American cuisine morphs, adapts, borrows, creates and roots itself wherever people enjoy it."

Here are some highlights (and a few thoughts):

• Key descriptors survey respondents used to describe their image of American cooking included "region" or "regional" and "comfort."
• Many of the sticking points--diversity, regionalism, immigration, cultural influences, size of the country--negative respondents cited in an attempt to deny a unified "American" definition were the same things positive respondents listed as defining characteristics of said cuisine.
• The South and New England were the most frequently cited regions by survey respondents grasping for the roots of "American cuisine."
• The most iconic dishes (in descending order) were: burgers/cheeseburgers, generic barbecue, fried chicken, mac ‘n' cheese and apple pie.

I'd suggest adding:

• Chicken-fried steak: a Southern specialty which Washington Post Food editor Joe Yonan lovingly immortalized in last week's paper
• Deep-dish pizza: better known as Chicago-style pie and arguably one of the heartiest stand-alone meals enjoyed by the masses.

 
So, my question of the day is: What does "American cuisine" mean to you?

Vienna
Have you been to La Sandia? I'm not really into their flour tortilla. I think Anita's is better.

Warren Rojas:
I've only pooped into La Sandia for a few exploratory nibbles, so I'll have to keep my cards close to the vest for now, Vienna.

I can tell you that the atmosphere is definitely more lively than the moribund Pauli Moto's (RIP, unattended clone). Some colleagues, however, were thoroughly turned off by the aggressive mole (which I actually enjoyed).

In the meantime, I'm sure the Anita's folks will be pleased to hear you remain firmly in their camp.

McLean
Hi there, hope you have a great 4th! My friends and I are planning to go downtown or to Old Town Alex. to watch the fireworks, probably dodging lightening like last year and just about every year before. Any spots that you recommend we drop into beforehand, to grab some light fare and refreshing cocktails?

Warren Rojas:
I'm hoping the weather will cooperate as well, McLean.

If you do wind up in the Old Town Alexandria area, you might consider:

Slamming down a few oyster shooters and chomping away on a lobster roll at Hank's;

Raising a pint and splitting some short ribs at Daniel O'Connell's;

Sipping fine wine and loading up on gourmet snacks courtesy of Vermilion;

NVM review: Hank's Oyster Bar

NVM review: Daniel O'Connell's

NVM review: Vermilion

Any of those spots should inject some culinary fireworks into your holiday wanderings.

Here's to a great fourth!

Fairfax
Hmm, when I think American, I think either comfort food like meatloaf ... mac n' cheese OR some fresh spin on chicken, steak or seafood.

Warren Rojas:
Meatloaf and "mom's cooking" were definitely on the minds of some of the JBF respondents, too, Fairfax.

The main problem with generic qualifiers like "home cooking" is that not everyone grew up in the same household.

For instance, while my own mother dear knew her way around a meatloaf, her arroz con pollo was what everyone clamored for (and still demands today).

WR
This just in...

Warren Rojas:
Local toque Christopher Carey, executive chef at Middleburg's Goodstone Inn & Estate, will showcase Virginia wines and regional delicacies (how timely, given our "American cuisine" discussion, no?) at a James Beard House dinner on August 4th.

Here's the menu:

Reception Hors d'oeuvres: Chesapeake Bay soft shell Po’boy, Lamb and fennel sausage, Virginia peanut soup, Cherry tomato and Blue Ridge Dairy mozzarella “Caprese”, Smithfield ham croquette

-Kluge Estate SP Rose 2004

First Course: Poached “good morning” Goodstone farm egg, Aldie Mill grits, green tomato, house-cured bacon, summer succotash

- Chrysalis Albarino 2006

Second Course: Airynee’s Goodstone garden greens and soufflé “2165”, Evorona Dairy “Piedmont” cheese

-Jefferson Vineyards “Reserve” Chardonnay 2006

Third Course: Honey and thyme basted Fields of Athenry organic chicken, Heirloom tomatoes, quinoa tabbouleh and parsley vinaigrette

-Jefferson Vineyards “Reserve” Chardonnay 2006

Fourth Course: Cedar plank cooked Fields of Athenry lamb rack, Summer pole bean ragout and lamb reduction

-Barboursville Octagon 2005


Dessert Course: Carter’s Mountain roasted peach, Pecan sandie, peach-buttermilk ice cream, warm blackberry sauce

-Veritas Kenmare


Get your tickets here.

Congrats and good luck to chef Carey.

NVM review: Goodstone Inn & Estate

WR
Gotta run...

Warren Rojas:
...But I just wanted to wish everyone a great holiday weekend.

Let's hear it for food, family and an ungodly amount of barely-legal fireworks.

See you next week!