2006 Great Hair
 
We’ve got the goods on how to bid farewell to bad hair days—Forever!

Top Selling Products Around Town

FREDERIC FEKKAI
At Sephora it’s hands down Frederic Fekkai. Fekkai is the best selling hair care line sold at the three Northern Virginia stores we contacted. According to staffers of this nationwide chain of perfume and cosmetics retailers, of those seeking shampoo, conditioner and hairspray, Fekkai sells the most, especially for curly hair control. For straight hair, Jonathan Products’ volumizer took top billing. That line is made by Jonathan Antin, celebrity stylist and star of Bravo’s Blow Out.—Mary Cunningham

Smooth Operator: The Ultimate Blow-out

My friend Cindy once told me, “Don’t suppress your curls, embrace your curls!” And I agree; we curly- and wavy-haired girls should embrace our tresses, and we usually do. But then again, sometimes you just want Jennifer Aniston stick-straight hair, and nothing else will satisfy. “What you need is a good blow-out,” my editor tells me. “What’s a blow-out?” I ask.

So I follow my ringlet-haired colleague, Miss K, to visit Salon Bleu stylist Candace Elliott for a first-hand viewing of what it’s like to go from dull tight curls to straight and shiny. After shampooing, begin, says Elliott, by towel-drying the hair and combing it with a wide-toothed comb. Now Elliott’s “rough drying” the wet locks, sweeping hot air around her head with waves of the arm. This gets the drips out. Elliott says hair should be about 50 percent dry before you begin blow-drying.

“Use a small round brush to get volume,” says the Audrey Hepburn look-a-like. “But if you’re going for a straighter look, use a bigger brush.” Elliott suggests using a ceramic brush for fine hair to give it volume. Otherwise, she recommends using a natural bristle brush, “a really good brush for any kind of hair.”

Having sectioned the hair, Elliott dries the bangs first. “A lot of times if you have curly or wavy hair it’s easiest to blow-dry them first, while they’re still wet.” Beginning at the roots, she moves to mid-shaft and then to the ends. Small sections of hair no wider than the width of the brush are pulled downward with the narrow-nozzled blowdryer almost touching the strands. “Let the hair cool down for a few seconds” before applying heat again, she says. To prevent hair from getting frizzy, be sure to direct the nozzle downward.

“Products make a world of difference. They’re really, really important,” Elliott says. She recommends using a foundation product before you begin to blow-dry. For fine hair, Elliott uses Bumble and Bumble Thickening Spray. For a smooth look she likes Kérastase Oleo-Relax Serum. Shampoo and conditioner are just as important, Elliott says. Look for quality. To set the blow-out, Elliott uses Kérastase Lumiere Nutri-Sculpt.

The new ionic blow-dryers on the market are a personal preference, Elliott says. “They are good for hair that is easily damaged.” But Elliott’s a devotee of the CHI flat iron. “CHI flat irons are really good professional quality, last a long time, won’t damage hair like metal and distribute heat evesnly.”

It’s really humid outside, so Elliott warms up the flat iron. “That added heat will help seal the cuticle down. If you do it with a comb, you get it really straight and won’t burn your fingers.”—Amal Omer

What You Need to Know About Color Correction

Several do-it-yourself methods of color correction can be found on the internet, but right beside them is a recommendation to go to a master colorist for best results. Zack Mancini, owner of Mancini de Paris in Arlington and McLean, says that a master colorist will know exactly what will work, and what won’t.

The process of color correction can take anywhere from one hour to seven hours. It’s not particularly inexpensive either; you’ll spend between $100 and $500, depending on the state of your hair and the time required to obtain the desired results. Before the correction, salons will require a consultation (it’s free!), so that you’ll know what you’re getting yourself into and so that the colorist can determine what specifically needs to be done.

Color correction can be as easy as adding highlights or lowlights, but most often consists of first stripping the hair of the unwanted color. There are multiple ways to strip hair; the stripping method used depends on the type of hair and the degree of damage. Hair may have to be stripped multiple times before all of the unwanted color is gone and before new color can be applied. The stripping chemicals (and there are a variety of them) dissolve color in the hair cuticle, but also remove carotene, a nutrient critical to the hair’s health and its ability to absorb the new color.

Mancini says he has seen “everything you can imagine,” including green hair. Most color correction clients have used drugstore, do-it-at-home color kits. The consensus among colorists is that getting the hair you see on one of those boxes can be quite difficult for the do-it-yourselfer.

It comes down to one simple thought when trying to save time and money on color correction: Go to a professional. —Mary Cunningham

To Thermal or Not to Thermal

Thermal reconditioning, also known as thermal straightening, transforms curly, wavy or frizzy hair into sleek, straight and manageable hair. This permanent treatment involves a multi-step process designed to restructure the hair’s protein bonds, which affect your hair’s tendencies to grow out curly or straight. Thermal straightening applies different chemicals and products to the hair, breaking down hair cuticles in the process, and then closing them after treatment with specially patented straightening irons, or flatirons, that can heat up to 356 degrees. The process can take over four hours, depending on the condition of the hair, and can require touch-ups on new hair growth after four to six months.

According to Felicia Chea, senior stylist at Zoe Salon & Spa, clients have to keep hair completely dry—she specifically recommends steering clear of “shower[s] with steam”—for about a week after the treatment. For the initial 48 to 72 hours after the treatment, Chea also advises clients to avoid putting their hair up in barrettes, clips or ponytails, or even tucking their hair behind their ears, “because it could reverse the process,” she says.

Most salons will require a consultation to see if you’re a good candidate for thermal straightening. The length of time and cost for the service will vary, “depending on the thickness, length, coarseness [and] chemical [treatment]” of your hair, says Chea. Good candidates for the treatment include people who have coarse or frizzy hair, she says. Since thermal straightening is not used for African-American hair, Zoe Salon & Spa provides relaxers for African-American hair.

Salons in Northern Virginia that offer thermal straightening include Eclips Salon & Day Spa in McLean, PHD For Hair in Alexandria, Ronnie Elias Salon & Spa in Oakton and Zoe Salon & Spa in Fairfax. Thermal straightening stylists have been specially trained around the country to learn the proper techniques for performing this treatment.

Thermal straightening usually begins at $600. However, prices can vary, depending on the quality of your hair, and also depending on the salon that you choose. Satisfied customers agree that it’s worth the investment, because the permanent results can save precious time avoiding what was once the day-to-day struggle to manage unruly locks. —Gayle Ruddick

Makeover Central
 
Transformations That Will Make You Scream, “I want that!”

Photography by Anastasia Chernyavsky

THE CLIENT Sandra Rojo
AGE 32
OCCUPATION Director of External Operations and Controls
HOMETOWN Fairfax
HAIR TYPE Curly and fine
WHAT SHE SEEKS “A little color, and cut a little shorter, maybe some highlights”

THE EXPERTS

Salon Tranquility Day Spa & Salon, Manassas

Stylist Gloria Harding, owner, 16 years, and Kirsten Morrison, master second level stylist, eight years

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
“When you walk into a room, do you like to turn heads or be a little more subtle?” Gloria Harding asks Sandra Rojo. “Of course, turn heads!” Rojo answers. Ready to stop people in their tracks, Rojo gives Harding and stylist Kirsten Morrison the go-ahead. The stylists proceed to “zone” the hair into three sections of color. Seemingly inspired by the scent of sweets coming from the lounge area, they choose a dark chocolate for the first zone, a darker caramel for the middle and a sun-kissed caramel for the top. They also add two shades of highlights, which Harding describes as “butterscotch” and “creamy cappuccino.” With the cut, Harding shows no fear, trimming the hair with a razor to create shorter, finer hair strands. Layering the hair, she “frameworks,” a technique used to carve volume into the hair. Harding also says that a razor cut makes it easier for the client to style her own hair. Playing up Rojo’s natural bronze hues, makeup artist Stephanie Cerqueira preps her for a night out on the town.

Recommended Products
Grund Tiger Reconstructing Shampoo, $17.25; Grund Tiger Masque, $48.75; Grund Rinse Conditioner, $22.50; Grund Velocity Spray, $22.50; Grund Switch Styling Paste, $22

Total Cost $250

To keep this look Return every eight weeks

By Amal Omer

THE CLIENT Mahela Sanguinetti
AGE 30
OCCUPATION West Virginia University
Graduate Student
HOMETOWN Reston
HAIR TYPE Thick and straight
WHAT SHE SEEKS She’s up for anything, as
long as it’s not “jet black” or “boy short”

THE EXPERTS

Salon Circe Salon & Spa, Alexandria

Stylist Angie Orwig, 15 years

Makeup Artist Michael Hodges, 20 years

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
After evaluating Mahela Sanguinetti’s facial structure and shape, stylist Angie Orwig immediately decides that her hair needs to be shorter. Ten inches are cut off, a big change for Sanguinetti, who doesn’t remember ever having hair shorter than her shoulders. Sanguinetti’s hair is very thick, so Orwig cuts the hair before coloring it, using “discontinued” cuts—cuts that are uneven, appearing freely random—to make the hair look thinner and to create movement. Orwig, who believes there is an art and science to cutting hair, is very deliberate about where she makes cuts and places color. She paints the bottom layers of the hair dark copper blonde, so the highlights will pop out, and uses a “melting” technique—where two colors are blended together on the hair—to add beige and platinum blonde highlights with slices of dark golden copper blonde. Orwig finishes by using a razor to add more movement before blow-drying. After seeing her amazing new haircut, Sanguinetti lets Manager and makeup artist Michael Hodges complete her new look with Aveda makeup, encouraging her to try warmer hues.

Recommended Products
Aveda Color Conserve Shampoo & Conditioner, $13 each; Aveda Color Control Sun Protector, $14; Aveda Brilliant Damage Control, $14; Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, $13

Total Cost $335

To keep this look Return every six to eight weeks

By Mary Cunningham

THE CLIENT Brittani Fairchild
AGE 22
OCCUPATION George Mason University
Studentt
HOMETOWN Ashburn
HAIR TYPE Naturally curly and fine, but
hair was chemically relaxed at time of makeover
WHAT SHE SEEKS A new style, something
different, but she likes her length

THE EXPERTS

Salon Eclips Salon & Spa, Ashburn

Stylist Jessie Kim, three years

Makeup Artist Carly Cutsforth, one year

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
Brittani Fairchild already has great hair, but she’s kept the same style for too many years. Stylist Jessie Kim gives her a chocolate brown base color and caramel, light caramel and golden blonde highlights. Kim gives her interior highlights, which will make the color upkeep easier. Shading the top layer of hair in one color will help hide regrowth, while the highlights provide extra pop. Kim “knows this is a conservative area” and doesn’t want to go “too funky.” During the wash, the color is toned for a more refined shade. Kim also gives Fairchild a protein treatment to help keep her hair healthy. Since Fairchild enjoys the length of her hair, Kim only takes off an inch, but uses more jagged cuts to help frame her face, and then curls the hair to give it a final touch. Kim hopes the new look gives Fairchild “an extra boost of courage that will complement her and that she will be able to keep up with.” Then makeup artist Carly Cutsforth works her magic to make Fairchild look even more stunning.

Recommended Products
Goldwell Color and Highlights Shampoo and Conditioner, $15 each; Crede ER Conditioner, $35; Margaret Josefin Damage Care Essence, $37.50; Grund Tiger, $16.50

Total Cost $330

To keep this look Return every six to eight weeks

By Mary Cunningham

THE CLIENT Elizabeth Cuddy Bourdon
AGE 29
OCCUPATION Marketing Manager
HOMETOWN Alexandria
HAIR TYPE Thick and straight
WHAT SHE SEEKS “It’s been the same color my
entire life, maybe shoulder length [hair] with bangs and some color, highlights or something”

THE EXPERTS

Salon Jon David Salon, Springfield

Stylist David Bakir, owner, 19 years

Makeup Artist Qadria Sabil, six years

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
“I could tell she was conservative right away,” says stylist David Bakir. Wanting to give Bourdon’s traditional locks a twist, Bakir decides to dye her medium brown, never-before-colored hair “a brownish-copper color.” Using a demi-permanent color for her base, Bakir says it’s “safest” maintenance wise and “gives you abundance of shine.” Demi-permanent dye, which is non-permanent and non-peroxide, is also less damaging to the hair. To accentuate the base color Bakir adds blond highlights and red lowlights to balance the highlights. He advises rinsing colored hair with cool to lukewarm warm, because it preserves the color and prevents frizz for those with curls. Preparing for the cut, Bakir asks for the music to be turned up. “I’m going to focus on [the haircut] more than anything else.” Centered and moving to the beat of the music, Bakir circles around Bourdon, using both razor and slicing techniques—and voilá, Bourdon’s hair is cut shoulder-length with lots of layers. With the final touches put on by makeup artist Qadria Sabil, giving Bourdon “a natural, sun-kissed look,” she leaves the salon a new woman.

Recommended Products
Redken Rewind, $11.50

Total Cost $200

To keep this look Return every eight to 12 weeks for color and six to eight weeks for cut

By Amal Omer

THE CLIENT Kristi Newton
AGE 30
OCCUPATION Sales Recruiter
HOMETOWN Ashburn
HAIR TYPE Thin and fine
WHAT SHE SEEKS “I wish [my hair] had more body”

THE EXPERTS

Salon Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salon & Spa, Reston

Colorist Rebecca Taylor, four years

Stylist Eric Boisseau, 18 years

Makeup Artist Razia Fida, 15 years

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
Ten weeks shy of delivery at the time of this makeover, Kristi Newton is a surprisingly calm expectant mother. So laid-back she tells colorist Rebecca Taylor, “As long as I still look professional, you can do whatever.” Taylor compares Newton’s color-less hair to a blank canvas, describing it as a “clean slate.” She says Newton “needs something to brighten her up and warm up her skin.” To give the mom-to-be a more updated look, Taylor chooses blond highlights and “milk chocolate” lowlights for the color. Boisseau, stepping in for the cut, gives Newton a layered bob. Using a razor for the cut, he takes off about four inches. Boisseau says a razor cut “texturizes the hair, gives it more of a choppy look.” He describes the cut as suitable for “a woman with a busy lifestyle,” and low-maintenance, requiring only pomade for styling and hand drying with a blow-dryer. Done, Boisseau tells Newton, “The shag is in, baby!” Makeup artist Razi Fida keeps Newton’s makeup natural and dramatizes the look by accentuating her blue eyes with shimmery brown and gold colors. Feeling glamorous and ready to show off her look, Newton heads to the grocery store.

Recommended Products
Privé Detailing Pomade, $21; Wella Preserve Shampoo, $12; Mizani Moisturizing Conditioner, $10.75

Total Cost $238

To keep this look Return every six weeks for cut and six to eight weeks for color

By Amal Omer

THE CLIENT Katie Wells
AGE 31
OCCUPATION Recruiting Manager
HOMETOWN Fort Belvoir
HAIR TYPE Straight
WHAT SHE SEEKS “Something different, like extensions and highlights.”

THE EXPERTS

Salon Ronnie Elias Salon & Spa, Oakton

Colorist Keri Hadley, 13 years

Stylist Erin O’Halloran, two years

Makeup Artist Razia Fida, 15 years

Stylist’s pre-treatment assessment and decisions
Katie Wells tells stylist Keri Hadley, “I’d love to do something fun.” Hadley knows just how to make that happen—by playing a game of peek-a-boo—with her color that is. Using the “peek-a-boo” technique, Hadley decides on caramel panels, which places the color underneath the top layer of the hair. Hadley says such a technique “reduces re-growth” and makes the color “pop a little bit.” She also uses a semi-permanent dark brown color to even out the base and get rid of Wells’ existing color. “I would rather do a more interesting application and design than an outrageous color,” says Hadley. She also assures Wells that she won’t give her “typical-Asian-girl color.” Attached to her length, Wells asks Hadley to be kind on the cut. Sticking to her promise, Hadley gives her a trim using a “point-cutting” system, cutting a bunch of tiny v’s at the ends. Hadley explains, “[This] gives a softer look and retains length.” To complete her makeover, makeup artist Erin O’Halloran, uses soft-pink hues with a touch of gloss for a look as shiny as her enviable hair.

Recommended Products
Bumble and bumble Gentle Shampoo, $18; Bumble and bumble Creme de Coco Conditioner, $20; Bumble and bumble Leave-In (Rinse Out) Conditioner, $18

Total Cost $230

To keep this look Return every eight weeks for cut and 16 weeks (eight weeks after cut) for color

By Amal Omer

(October 2006)